Weekend RV trips are all about freedom freedom to park where you want, relax off the grid, and not worry about campground reservations or hookups. That’s what got me interested in building a DIY solar power setup for weekend RVers like me who want to enjoy short trips without running noisy generators or draining batteries too fast.

The idea of installing a solar system might seem intimidating at first, but once I broke it down into parts, it became a simple and rewarding project. It’s not just about saving power it’s about creating more independence. Even if you only travel a few days a month, solar can keep your essentials running smoothly and give you more flexibility in where you camp.

I’m going to walk you through how I built a basic but reliable DIY solar power setup for weekend RVers, covering the components I chose, how I installed everything, what it cost, and the lessons I learned along the way.

Why Weekend RVers Benefit From Solar

Short trips don’t always seem like the best place to invest in solar, but I quickly realized that even two nights off-grid can put a serious strain on house batteries. I use lights, a fridge fan, water pump, and occasionally charge my phone or laptop. Add in cloudy days or cold weather, and battery levels drop fast.

The beauty of a DIY solar power setup for weekend RVers is that it doesn’t have to be as big or expensive as a full-time setup. A smaller, more affordable kit can handle basic needs, extend battery life, and reduce or eliminate generator use. Plus, I save fuel, avoid campground noise, and never worry about finding power hookups again.

Planning Your Solar Setup

Before I bought anything, I made a list of what I wanted to power. My priorities were LED lights, USB charging, a vent fan, and the water pump. I occasionally run a small 12V TV or Bluetooth speaker. All of that adds up to about 30–50 amp-hours of power usage per day.

I also made sure to look at my battery bank. I have a 100Ah deep-cycle AGM battery that works well but needed more input. If you’re starting from scratch, I’d suggest upgrading to two 100Ah batteries if you plan to run more appliances or charge devices frequently.

Here’s what I decided I needed:

  • One 200W solar panel (or two 100W panels)
  • A 20A MPPT charge controller
  • A battery monitor
  • Mounting brackets
  • 10 AWG wiring, fuses, and connectors

Choosing The Right Solar Panels

For me, rigid solar panels made the most sense. They’re cost-effective, widely available, and simple to install. I picked up two 100W Renogy monocrystalline panels. These offered a good balance of power and size. On a sunny day, they generate enough electricity to keep up with my usage and then some.

Flexible panels are another option. They’re lightweight and low profile, but they can be less durable and usually cost more per watt. I considered them but wanted something sturdier since I travel through a mix of weather and terrain.

I mounted my panels flat to the roof using Z-brackets and sealed the screw holes with Dicor lap sealant. For weekenders, flat mounting is often enough there’s no need for tilt brackets unless you’re aiming for year-round solar efficiency.

Installing The Charge Controller

The charge controller is the brain of your solar setup. It regulates voltage and protects your battery from overcharging. I went with a 20A MPPT controller, which is more efficient than a PWM model and can handle future panel upgrades.

I installed the controller inside a cabinet near my battery compartment. From the panels, I ran 10 AWG wire down through a waterproof gland on the roof. Make sure to install an inline fuse between the panel and the controller, and another fuse between the controller and battery. Safety should always come first.

A neat trick I learned: label all wires clearly and use split loom tubing to protect them from chafing. It keeps the system tidy and reduces the chance of future issues.

Wiring It All Together

Wiring turned out to be easier than I expected. With a basic understanding of positive and negative terminals, I connected the solar panels to the controller and the controller to the battery. I used ring terminals for secure connections and tightened everything down.

I added a battery monitor to keep an eye on input, output, and battery health. This was a game-changer. Being able to check power stats at a glance helps me adjust energy usage when needed and prevents surprises.

For accessories like USB ports or 12V sockets, I installed a small fused distribution block, which draws power from the battery directly. This gave me clean power for charging phones, powering lights, and even running my Maxxair fan.

What It Cost Me

I kept track of the total cost so I could recommend this setup to fellow RVers. Here’s the breakdown:

  • Two 100W Renogy solar panels – $190
  • 20A MPPT charge controller – $100
  • Battery monitor – $40
  • Mounting brackets and sealant – $30
  • Wires, fuses, connectors – $40

Total: $400

For under $500, I built a functional, dependable solar system that keeps me powered for 2–3 days at a time without ever needing to plug in. That’s a smart tradeoff, especially when you consider campground fees and generator fuel.

Real-World Performance

On my first trip after the install, I camped for three nights in a shaded forest spot. Even with dappled sunlight, the panels kept the battery topped up. I didn’t run out of power, didn’t use a generator, and didn’t have to ration electricity like I used to.

In desert areas or wide-open campgrounds, I’ve seen the panels charge at full capacity. They refill my battery by mid-afternoon after a night of regular use. I always recommend parking with the panel side facing the sun if possible, and keeping the panels clean of dust and pollen.

Maintenance Tips

Solar panels are low-maintenance, but not maintenance-free. I give them a wipe-down with a soft cloth and water about once a week during dusty trips. I also check wiring connections every month to make sure nothing’s come loose.

The charge controller and battery monitor don’t need much attention, but I like to glance at them during each trip to catch any odd behavior. So far, everything’s worked flawlessly.

Expanding The System

If you find yourself doing more than just weekend trips, it’s easy to expand your setup. Add a second battery, or install another panel. The charge controller I chose can handle up to 260W, so adding a third panel wouldn’t require any additional gear.

You could also add an inverter to run small AC appliances. I don’t use one often, but I keep a 300W pure sine wave inverter onboard for charging camera batteries and occasionally using a laptop charger.

For serious boondocking, a DIY solar power setup for weekend RVers can grow into a full-time off-grid rig. The basics remain the same you just scale the components.

Mistakes To Avoid

Looking back, I made a couple of rookie mistakes you can avoid. First, I initially undersized the wiring. After switching to 10 AWG, the system ran more efficiently. Don’t skimp on wire size.

Second, I didn’t use a gland when passing the wires through the roof the first time. I sealed it well, but over time, it started leaking. Adding a proper gland solved that.

Also, I didn’t fuse the battery connection the first time around, which was a risk. It’s worth a few extra bucks to add fuses in the right spots and protect your investment.

Final Thoughts

A DIY solar power setup for weekend RVers is one of the smartest upgrades I’ve ever made to my rig. It’s affordable, quiet, and gives me way more flexibility in where I camp and how I use power. Whether you want to keep the lights on, charge your phone, or run a vent fan on hot nights, solar makes it possible without being tied to the grid.

I recommend starting small, keeping it simple, and building confidence as you go. Even with basic tools and limited experience, you can install your own solar setup in a weekend and be reaping the benefits on your next trip.

Let me know if you want help building a parts list for your specific RV or adding solar to a van conversion. I’m always happy to share what I’ve learned.